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- - Sliding iron door locked from inside??? (http://goldismoney.info/forums/showthread.php?t=313003)

GoldenPoet | 10-15-2008 02:57 PM
Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Could someone with a gun blast through? What thickness of iron would we need to prevent gunshots entering? For that matter... what about block/cement walls? Perhaps double up on the walls? I think I would rather hole up with preps than be out in some wilderness without solid protection. Also thinking about installing a small water tank inside the house. Whoever said "may you live in interesting times" can go ---- themselves! :confused_ma:

Conk | 10-15-2008 03:17 PM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcard (Post 1360000) Sand bags. :biggrin: I'm not sure what scenario you're trying to prepare for. Random looters/burglars? You can't really go inside and hide like a turtle unless you have an underground bunker. I'm sure there are things you can do to harden entry points and make the walls a little stronger, but unless you're fireproof and have all the necessities of life and can replenish them...you have to come out sooner or later...and the zombies will get you!
At least zombies are slow and lumber along. :wink:

Tn...Andy | 10-15-2008 04:01 PM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? This is from a site that sells steel pistol and rifle targets. Basically, you would need a 3/8" heat treated steel with a Brinell rating of 470 or better.....you gonna find that hard to get and dadgum expensive....not to mention very heavy. And even that won't stand up to steel core ammo for a long time.... Hollow cement block walls won't stand up too long to sustained rifle fire. What are the different types of steel? Different applications require different types . A36 is the standard construction steel. This is a low carbon steel without heat treat. The hardness is about 150-180 Brinell. A36 is not suitable for any type of target use. Not even shotgun. An A36 target will crater and present a serious safety hazzard. We use A36 for our bases and stands only. AR or AR225 is a high carbon steel but is not heat treated. The hardness is right around 225 Brinell. This is not suitable for targets either. T1 or A514 is a heat treated alloy of hardness ranging from 235-300 Brinell. This is suitable for standard velocity handguns targets only. Magnum handguns or cowboy rifle will pit this steel. This is also ok for standard velocity shotgun with lead bird shot. AR400 is a heat treated alloy with hardness about 370-470 Brinell. This would be ok for Magnum handguns or any cowboy shooting, pistol, rifle and shotgun. This is not suitable for high powered rifle. T520 or AR500 or Armor plate is a heat treated alloy with hardness about 470-521 Brinell. This is the best steel for targets that I know of. This will handle .308 ball ammo at 100 yards or .223 at 150 yards without any damage. (Steel Jacketed, Steel Core or Armor Piercing Ammo may damage the steel. Copper Jacketed Lead bullets are recommended for rifle use.) All Steel will warp when you shoot it. The softer A36 steel will cave in or become concave. The harder steels will become convex because you are stretching the surface when you hit it. It is important to use both sides of the target so it will move back and forth and stay relatively flat. Because of this stretching, if you weld on the back of a target it will always crack off eventually. We never weld on the target plates themselves. All of our targets bolt on so you may turn them around and use both sides. The bolts we use are grade 5 heat treated carriage bolts. These have rounded low profile heads to minimize any chance of lead spatter coming off of the bolt head. All of our steel is "weldable" using low hydrogen or wire processes.. However, if you weld on them you will soften the steel around the weld including the other side of the plate. This may cause increased damage to the target and a safety hazard from splash back. Once again, we never weld on the target plates. http://www.arntzentargets.com/index.htm

Long Arrow | 10-16-2008 07:27 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? How about his? http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...stic-graph.gif

Tn...Andy | 10-16-2008 07:42 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Says "Laminate Thickness" with a chart. Laminate of WHAT ?? Wood, steel, plastic, paper ?

SLV>GLD | 10-16-2008 09:03 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? The Box Of Truth put it to rest that sandbags stop all types of munitions extremely effectively. If I were to fortify against flying lead I'd be looking at sand. Maybe a sand-filled double block wall? Sand is a whole lot cheaper than metal plating, should be easy to work with DIY and apparently is going to stop everything better than anything else.

Twisted Avatar | 10-16-2008 09:08 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by SLV>GLD (Post 1361740) The Box Of Truth put it to rest that sandbags stop all types of munitions extremely effectively. If I were to fortify against flying lead I'd be looking at sand. Maybe a sand-filled double block wall? Sand is a whole lot cheaper than metal plating, should be easy to work with DIY and apparently is going to stop everything better than anything else.
Bingo! Sandbags, sandbags , sadbangs work because they are dense and hold mass and enough mass can stop velocity. Sandbags are cheap as hell and have myriad of uses. T

Squirrel Bait | 10-16-2008 09:14 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn...Andy (Post 1360130) This is from a site that sells steel pistol and rifle targets. Basically, you would need a 3/8" heat treated steel with a Brinell rating of 470 or better.....you gonna find that hard to get and dadgum expensive....not to mention very heavy. And even that won't stand up to steel core ammo for a long time.... Hollow cement block walls won't stand up too long to sustained rifle fire. What are the different types of steel? Different applications require different types . A36 is the standard construction steel. This is a low carbon steel without heat treat. The hardness is about 150-180 Brinell. A36 is not suitable for any type of target use. Not even shotgun. An A36 target will crater and present a serious safety hazzard. We use A36 for our bases and stands only. AR or AR225 is a high carbon steel but is not heat treated. The hardness is right around 225 Brinell. This is not suitable for targets either. T1 or A514 is a heat treated alloy of hardness ranging from 235-300 Brinell. This is suitable for standard velocity handguns targets only. Magnum handguns or cowboy rifle will pit this steel. This is also ok for standard velocity shotgun with lead bird shot. AR400 is a heat treated alloy with hardness about 370-470 Brinell. This would be ok for Magnum handguns or any cowboy shooting, pistol, rifle and shotgun. This is not suitable for high powered rifle. T520 or AR500 or Armor plate is a heat treated alloy with hardness about 470-521 Brinell. This is the best steel for targets that I know of. This will handle .308 ball ammo at 100 yards or .223 at 150 yards without any damage. (Steel Jacketed, Steel Core or Armor Piercing Ammo may damage the steel. Copper Jacketed Lead bullets are recommended for rifle use.) All Steel will warp when you shoot it. The softer A36 steel will cave in or become concave. The harder steels will become convex because you are stretching the surface when you hit it. It is important to use both sides of the target so it will move back and forth and stay relatively flat. Because of this stretching, if you weld on the back of a target it will always crack off eventually. We never weld on the target plates themselves. All of our targets bolt on so you may turn them around and use both sides. The bolts we use are grade 5 heat treated carriage bolts. These have rounded low profile heads to minimize any chance of lead spatter coming off of the bolt head. All of our steel is "weldable" using low hydrogen or wire processes.. However, if you weld on them you will soften the steel around the weld including the other side of the plate. This may cause increased damage to the target and a safety hazard from splash back. Once again, we never weld on the target plates. http://www.arntzentargets.com/index.htm
Wow, what a small world. The guy who wrote this bought my old house and is still my neighbor. A real good guy. sb

SLV>GLD | 10-16-2008 09:14 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted Avatar (Post 1361749) sadbangs work because they are dense and hold mass and enough mass can stop velocity.
http://theboxotruth.com/docs/bot7.htm The higher the velocity the more likely it is the round will disintegrate and gain less penetration. This particular box O' Truth was possibly the most enlightening one of all for me. I really like the one where they try to blow open master-locks too http://theboxotruth.com/docs/bot5.htm .

GOLD DUCK | 10-16-2008 09:47 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? QWAK,In Nam we had sand bags every ware even in the GUN TRUCKS, heavy but they disapate the energy extreamly well! I made over 100 sand bags from old discarded pants I found for FREE when scrounging!:s1: Just cut off the legs and stich the bottoms closed and fold over the tops and stich them closed all around, then use a piece of coat hanger to pull a tie cord threw the stiched up top!:yes: You can also use 1 gal. milk jugs and other containers filled with sand and they will work just as well!:yes: I experimented with an ammo box in Nam and shot up an ammo box with my m16. It was a thin ammo box perhaps 3" thick and penitration was less than 2" which realy suprised me! The projectal totaly decintigrated and there was not even a bulge in the other side!:yes: the DUCK

WeedMonger | 10-16-2008 10:08 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? I agree with the sandbag thing. Amazing how sand "evolved" ... oh wait...never mind.

jamesfrancisco | 10-16-2008 04:32 PM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Shredded rubber from car tyres is also very effective, but you need a good thick layer. Sandbag thickness works fine, you want the rubber about 1/2" chunks.

Tn...Andy | 10-16-2008 06:48 PM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Word to the wise on shredded rubber. Local indoor gun range used it as a backstop. Somebody came in and fired some tracer ammo.....range burned down later that night, in a rather stinky, REALLY HARD TO PUT OUT fire. Still closed.

exporter | 10-24-2008 03:57 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? If you are serious about this, you'll want 1" AR500 steel, will stop multiple .50 AP rounds.

SilverCity | 10-24-2008 10:18 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? 1 Attachment(s) Someone posted this a while back...http://www.terrabuilt.com/page6.asp Military applications Contingency construction. Bullet, shrapnel & explosive stopping capability. Force Protection. Revetments and Fortifications. Substitute for sand bags. Civic action and Nation building for schools, clinics, community buildings, and housing. AK47 Slugs after Hitting TERRABRICK at 25 Yards

Smiling Bob | 10-24-2008 10:32 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenPoet (Post 1359970) Whoever said "may you live in interesting times" can go ---- themselves!
Did you hear that? What was that noise? :bear_cry:

TLM | 10-24-2008 10:44 AM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn...Andy (Post 1361654) Says "Laminate Thickness" with a chart. Laminate of WHAT ?? Wood, steel, plastic, paper ?
Fiberglass Laminate... http://www.paynefence.com/fullaccess...or%20Guard.pdf

jamesfrancisco | 10-24-2008 02:47 PM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by Sukhoi_fan (Post 1363301) Heh, a keyed padlock is no match for a cordless drill - ANY cordless drill.
Tried it on a good Abloy? All you'll do by drilling is make it impossible to open with or without the key - even if your drill bit lasts longer than about 10 seconds.

jamesfrancisco | 10-24-2008 03:06 PM
Re: Sliding iron door locked from inside??? Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn...Andy (Post 1363139) Word to the wise on shredded rubber. Local indoor gun range used it as a backstop. Somebody came in and fired some tracer ammo.....range burned down later that night, in a rather stinky, REALLY HARD TO PUT OUT fire. Still closed.
Thanks for that Andy, never thought about tracer fire. I designed and had built an indoor range for cops, the shredded rubber was the backstop. But of course cops don't use tracers. Shredded rubber would be nearly impossible to extinguish without a gas extinguishing system. As an amusing aside, Health and Safety insisted that we had a "bulletproof" screen with just a hole for the armourer to put his hand and pistol through. Bulletproof to what? A .50? A .22? 3 weeks later one of the armourers was fixing and checking a Glock .45, it was still broken, went onto slam-fire mode and broke his scaphoid bone against the glass. Big compensation claim, weeks off work. The same H&S people insisted that I put a door at the backstop end of the range as a fire exit - but had no requirement for it to have any kind of interlock. "Kindly walk in to my firing range, sir - you'll do as a backstop". I had an interlock put on it that stopped anyone opening the door until PIR detectors detected that no-one was there, and the armourer had entered a code from OUTSIDE the range which locked his door and opened the "I'm a backstop!" one. Some people think they know it all about health and safety - I'd rather leave through an open door than accidentally stumble into a room where people were shooting directly at you!

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