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AMforPM | 08-05-2006 06:01 PM
Urban Homesteading This article just skims the basics, but has some links, and it does describe the general path those in town can take to be better able to provide for themselves if they need to. It is the general path I am taking. I think many who for various reasons cannot move to acreage right away do not think there is much they can do. But there is. Now apartments are a bigger challenge, and unless you had some useable roof space, I do not think you could feed yourself without a yard. But it does not require a huge yard. ----- American Free Press August 9, 2004 Urban Homesteading By Christopher J. Petherick Growing numbers of urban and suburban Americans, fed up with the lazy, consumer-driven, materialistic society, are shunning gas stations, supermarkets and noisome modern living to get off the grid, become self-sufficient and live better in the city. Long known to farmers and other country folk, this simple approach to life, known today as "urban homesteading" is becoming increasingly popular on the Internet, where creative minds have selected methods from the past - forgotten to many in today's fast-paced life, driven by shopping malls, ubiquitous fueling stations and convenience stores - and adopted them to life in the city and suburbs. In this day, many of us - even most rural people - have become complacent with the comforts of contemporary living. All any of us need do today is drive a mile down the road to the local gas station and mini-mart to fill up the tank, grab some lunch, purchase groceries and even do some banking. And with the advent of new chains of massive super shopping centers like Wal-Mart, Americans can do all of that, plus have work done on their car, get a haircut and catch a movie. But these luxuries come at a cost to all of us. Whether it is by invading and occupying foreign countries to secure cheap natural resources or by coercing billions of dollars out of hardworking citizens in the form of taxes, we all suffer as government takes more to feed our habits. For over a year, American Free Press has been regularly publishing its "People's Power" Column, looking at ways in which the average American can get off of the grid by taking responsibility for his own energy needs. By learning about and utilizing natural ways to live their lives, urban and suburban homeowners, who are on city sewer and water lines, have been able to almost totally get away from using services provided by cities or large corporations. With just a little bit of knowledge and a moderate amount of hard work, urban homesteaders are fabricating rain Barrels to supply their water needs, constructing simple composting toilets to avoid sewer systems, making solar ovens to cook food in, integrating used cooking oil or biodiesel to heat their homes and power their vehicles and even making natural air conditioners to cool their houses. From such web sites as pathtofreedom.com, a wealth of information is now on the Internet, which provides insights and warnings about people's trials and successes getting off the grid. There is information on an ingenious system to develop a raised-bed garden and cold frame to supply year-round all the fruits and vegetables your family may need. Just about everything can be found these days on the Internet - even details on how to make your own natural paint and ink or how to use ordinary hand-held tools to dig well up to 100 feet in depth. And it's not just American city dwellers flocking to the lifestyle. Homesteaders around the world are popping up on the Internet, providing their own insights and tips that they have learned the hard way. Be advised that laws and regulations are different in every municipality. So, those interested in urban homesteading should check with the local government to find out about ordinances before building outbuildings or purchasing chickens or ducks. By adopting the ingenuity of urban homesteaders, Americans can stop paying for their energy needs and start enjoying the fruit of their labor - and, more importantly, start living their lives without costing a fortune. Homesteading Information Web Sites www.homesteadingtoday.com www.homesteadgarden.com www.frugalvillage.com www.pathtofreedom.com

Halophyte | 08-05-2006 06:57 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading "But these luxuries come at a cost to all of us. Whether it is by invading and occupying foreign countries to secure cheap natural resources or by coercing billions of dollars out of hardworking citizens in the form of taxes, we all suffer as government takes more to feed our habits." Nice to see someone NOT in denial ... .

searcher | 08-05-2006 09:26 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Good post. Thanks for the links.

AMforPM | 08-06-2006 04:26 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading We took a test and fun run at feeding ourselves a few years back. I planted a 6 tree home orchard, prepared a group of 8x16 garden beds and built a small but very comfortable and secure hen house, and planted and ordered chicks. None of it requires acreage. If you want to keep cattle, then you need acreage, but fruits, vegetables, fresh eggs, and chicken meat if you can stand to butcher (I cannot kill animals I have made friends with myself.) But protein from eggs is just as useful, and keeps coming. The nice thing about hens is that they can live with you in a very symbiotic manner. Those outer cabbage leaves with bug eggs and worms that you don't want are their favorites. Extra protein. Then they convert your garden waste to eggs and fertilizer. They also like the clippings from the part of the yard I still mow, and it adds vitamins to their diet. Once we got a plague of tomato worms which we hand picked off the tomatoes and carried in a bucket to the hens. Party time in hen land! We put in a lot of cross fencing, because if turned loose in a smallish area they will eat every weed and dig up any bugs, turn the soil, and deposit fertilizer, making that area perfect for planting later with no weeding and turning for you to do. It is a very cooperative life, keeping hens. They stay safe and well fed from your planning and building them a house, and they do chores for you and give things you can eat plus things that make your garden healthy. They get very tame and friendly too if you are kind to them and bring them fresh green tidbits from the yard when they are little chicks still under their warming light. One used hop up in my lap like a pet, and even laid an egg there. (Which surprised the heck out of me.) We also fed them any non poultry table scraps. And if we had a spare melon from the garden... how they loved that. And they liked the peach peelings when we canned or made peach ice cream, just lots of scraps of many kinds. We did buy laying mash for part of their food, but I calculated that I had enough area in the side yard to grow grain for them if need be. They like millet and it likes this climate. We did attract pigeons who wanted some of the mash, but in a crisis, I might view them as squab. They are not part of the household. Also, there is a satisfaction I find hard to describe in having a productive homestead. It feels peaceful and right in some deep way and fills holes I did not even know were there. We found we sat under the shade tree and watched the hens' antics more often than we expected to. A thriving garden is very satisfying too.

NUTS! | 08-06-2006 06:57 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Great post about the hens! My neighbours and I have figured out how to get around the silly over-regulation that keeps people from legally being able to keep hens in an urban environment. EDIT -- sorry for not providing any real information. She the post below about show animals. The eggs are great.

oooTT99pd | 08-06-2006 07:36 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by NUTS! (Post 323068) My neighbours and I have figured out how to get around the silly over-regulation that keeps people from legally being able to keep hens in an urban environment.
Which is ....??? Care to share?

oooTT99pd | 08-06-2006 07:37 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by AMforPM (Post 322954) We took a test and fun run at feeding ourselves a few years back.
The way you wrote this it appears you do not do this any longer. If so, why did you stop?

Goldhedge | 08-06-2006 08:08 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by Three J Tribe (Post 323097) Which is ....??? Care to share?
ditto here

NUTS! | 08-06-2006 08:15 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by Three J Tribe (Post 323097) Which is ....??? Care to share?
Sorry for not providing any real info in my last post! It depends on the jurisdiction, but basically it involves taking the steps to have them considered as pets or show animals. They just happen to lay eggs as well. If your town has bylaws against keeping livestock in the city limits, take a look at any regulations or exceptions for show animals and pets. What my neighbour does is once a year, takes one hen to a agricultural show just outside of the city. The receipts from that show are enough to demonstrate that they are for showing and competitions and not for livestock. It's never gotten to court or anything though. She also registered them with some organization. Or atleast one of them. She also had a vet sign off on their pedigree (whatever breed of chicken they were, can't recall). Basically you want to establish a pattern of them being show animals. Now if chickens are explicitly listed as prohibited, you're not going to be able to keep them unless you do it covertly. All it takes though, is a neighbour to complain about them though. Cities are designed to keep people from being self sufficient and the goombas who concern themselves with licenses, regulations and bylaw enforcement get off on cease and desist orders and fines. A documentary about a guy's chickens and Vancouver city bylaws (requires QuickTime): http://www.vfs.com/showcase.php?id=3...project_id=838 Also check out Cityfarmer.org

mayhem | 08-06-2006 09:57 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading AMforPM ! I have two copies of a book, "EXTREME simplicity, homesteading in the city", by: Christopher and Dolores Lynn Nyerges. Pretty good reading. I got them when we thought we might have to move to the city. If you shoot me a PM with a mail address, I'll send one of them out to ya. Otherwise it is available at Amazon.

AMforPM | 08-06-2006 10:17 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading We got caught up in caring for our dying aunt, which was time consuming because she was bed bound and blind. Now, we have not restarted because we are seriously considering traveling abroad when we retire, so as our animals die, we do not get more. (the wife wanted to take them ALL, even the chickens, with us! :eek: ) Our last hen, Patience, (You see how it is. The hens had names.) died this year, and one 19 year old cat and her 17 year old daughter. So we are down to 1 dog and 1 17 year old cat. If we decide not to travel, we will get more hens. But no way am I going globe trotting with hens. :haha:

AgAuGal | 08-07-2006 06:01 AM
Re: Urban Homesteading At least you know you can fo it if need be. How long would it take you to get back to peak production again if need be? One year? Great thread, very useful info, thanks.

TheSimpleton | 08-07-2006 11:04 AM
Re: Urban Homesteading "I planted a 6 tree home orchard..."<quote> ...Meanwhile, 12 years later...says the Simpleton, who orchards from time to time. If you want to eat something in a crisis, please be reminded that you will need to start +5 years BEFORE the warning signs appear, because you'll have a lot to do. Also be reminded that seeds, trees, hens, etc will be in sudden and acute shortage. ...But don't worry, this shortage will end so soon as the crisis is over! TS

Atahualpa | 08-07-2006 11:15 AM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSimpleton (Post 323575) "I planted a 6 tree home orchard..."<quote> ...Meanwhile, 12 years later...says the Simpleton, who orchards from time to time. If you want to eat something in a crisis, please be reminded that you will need to start +5 years BEFORE the warning signs appear, because you'll have a lot to do. Also be reminded that seeds, trees, hens, etc will be in sudden and acute shortage. ...But don't worry, this shortage will end so soon as the crisis is over! TS
When I used to travel in Latin America I would go to the local markets in the towns I passed through. I often thought about all the native seeds for sale in the markets and if someone was so inclined they could make a business buying open pollinated native food crops and then market them to gardeners. Native and non-ornamental trees are another thing I have thought about for a homestead income.

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 12:04 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading I have open pollinated seed stored carefully that would not only provide for us, but many others. I very much agree that in a crisis seed would be in short supply. I bought A LOT. (It is cheap.) here http://www.aaoobfoods.com/nonhybridseeds.htm#Melons I liked the woman who runs this business and she has a lot of open pollinated seed. (Seed you can save from your crop, and you get the same crop next year. Kind of 'pure bred' as opposed to 'mutt' seed.) and sealed it to keep moisture out and gave it a section of the refrigerator to make it long lasting in viability. I did not pull a vaccuum on it, as seeds breathe, but I heat sealed a plastic vacuum bag around it so it would not get fridge moisture. It is actually many bags, but you get the idea. There are gardening clubs in my town and I would likely inquire if different members wanted to take responsibility to produce next year's seed of different varieties (They can cross and mess the seed up if you plant 2 kinds of corn, for example, in the same garden.) I would likely produce some seed as well. For example, I could have squash seed for others that I grew in 60 - 90 days. The orchard I keep up to date replacing trees when need be. (peach trees are rather shorter lived compared to say apples.) The hen house is ready to go, but it takes chicks 6 to 8 months to start laying. One not very far out of town rural friend is showing an interest in hens, and if that keeps up, I am going to offer to pay for their chicks if I could have, say 6 hens, or a few new hatched chicks in a crisis. But no henhouse there yet. I'm hoping though. But I'm not getting anything that is going to get named and cried over if we move! The garden beds are prepared and mulched to not get weedy, so it would take about 60 days to have that kind of food. The hens kept weeds out till we lost Patience. She and Blackie lasted longest. The sprout making seed is stored, and those vitamin and enzyme rich salads require just a few days to get going.

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 12:27 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Another thing to consider is that your climate, and even the mini climate of your block and the micro climate of parts of your yard, make different varieties thrive. I learned which varieties grew well right here by gardening. You can plant a tiny garden and test varieties and gain skills in your yard. The point not being to jump into feeding yourself from a standing start, but learn without going large scale. Just a few feet and you could try out 1 or 2 plants in each season. If you have a spot you pass by daily you will notice anything without putting the garden on your chore list.

TheSimpleton | 08-07-2006 12:52 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading That's a good point that all growing and production are local. Even a few miles difference produces large changes in what should be grown. So the best advice would be to "hobby" along for a while, for in fact knowledge of your specific plot would be the item truly in shortest supply and highest demand in a crisis. Besides, for this there can be no excuses. We're not talking about going into market growing, but knocking together a few tomato boxes for the balcony, or picking a chesnut instead of Japanese maple for the yard. Sprouts are the ideal carryover for a green shortage, and have some of the cheapest seeds. This would work even in winter, or even as a refugee, if need be. TS Now where did I leave that Pinus edulis...?

TheSimpleton | 08-07-2006 01:00 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading This looked interesting: http://www.bountifulgardens.org/ Some extraordinarily rare things here. Sometimes 12,000 year-old wheat has that "proven" quailty about it, as well as rare edibles seldom offered outside the wild. TS

Dude | 08-07-2006 01:05 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by AMforPM (Post 323618) (They can cross and mess the seed up if you plant 2 kinds of corn, for example, in the same garden.)
Excellent point that I didn't think about. You saved me a potentially frustrating issue. My winter gardens will be going in with my first heirlooms shortly. Thanks.

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 01:22 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Exactly, TS. Here is a listing of our off the grid living preps and plans. What works for you depends on the house and yard you have to start with. water - leaf excluding gutter and downspout. Only a barrel now, a 500 gallon tank in the future. Clorox, iodine tabs, and a good filter. sewer - a 'potty chair' with bucket left over from before our aunt was entirely bed bound and a 'doggie doolie' buried near the back door as a mini septic system hot showers - a sun shower bag electricity - not very far along here yet. small gasoline generator ok for storms, but sure to be useless in a long crisis. solar panels and a natural gas/lp gas generator in the thinking stage. We have cut back useage as well. food - stored staples and prepared soil and stored seed. Our practice proved this climate permits something to be grown year round. In the hottest part of the summer peppers, squash, and okra thrive, cucumbers keep producing, but are not very happy, melons mostly love the heat. In the coldest part of winter turnips and swiss chard grew fine. You might need a hoop plastic tunnel to grow year round, or a mini root cellar to store your fall food through the winter. cooking - solar cooker with a plan for a solar window box in the future to put it in for access from inside the house (not visible from the street) Stored beans after a few years get hard and might need to simmer 3 days. I do not want to need fuel for cooking.

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 01:27 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by Dude (Post 323669) Excellent point that I didn't think about. You saved me a potentially frustrating issue. My winter gardens will be going in with my first heirlooms shortly. Thanks.
Nice! What heirlooms are you planting?

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 01:46 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading That Bountiful Gardens looks good, but I need to find the decoder ring. :D Quote:
GB Cultural info: ALL / Matures 10-13 / Yield grain 3-12, dry 12-72 / Spacing 7 / Area 120

Dude | 08-07-2006 01:49 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by AMforPM (Post 323689) Nice! What heirlooms are you planting?
Have not compiled all the details of the beans, peas, and other stuff I will be planting, but this is what I have documented so far. CUCUMBER Marketer Cucumis sativus 45-50 days. A 10-inch long, cylindrical green cucumber which is slightly tapered. A heavy producer of BURPLESS cucumbers that are ideal for slicing. The vines are very vigorous and prolific. Can be used in the greenhouse. Open-pollinated. Disease Resistant: Powdery Mildews Harvest in 45-50 days. Days to Germination: 7-14 Optimum Soil Temp. for Germination: 70F to 80F Days To Harvest: 45-50 days Planting Depth: 1/4 inch Spacing, Row: 4-5 foot Spacing, Hills: 4-5 foot Light: Full Sun SOWING: Sow in fertile, well-drained soil after all danger of frost from spring to early summer. For "hill" culture, space 6-8 seeds in groups 4-5 apart. Cover with 1/4" of soil, firm lightly and keep moist. OR sow seeds 8" apart in rows 4-5 apart if growing on a trellis or fence. Seeds can be started indoors 4 to 5 weeks before last frost. GERMINATION: 7-14 days, depending upon soil and weather conditions. THINNING AND TRANSPLANTING: THIN to 3 strong plants to each group if using "hill" method when seedlings are 6-8" high. If using trellis method, thin plants to stand 8" or more apart. HARVEST: Pick when cucumber is 8-10 inches long, and regularly. Suggestions: Keep fruits picked to encourage more production. . Keep soil moderately moist during germination. Water deep and feed every 3 weeks. Reminder: Plant some fresh dill for homemade pickles Lemon Cucumber (65 Days) Cucumis sativus HEIRLOOM. Lemon yellow cucumbers are tender and sweet, excellent for salads and pickling. The 3-4" round and lemon yellow cucumbers are tender and sweet, excellent for salads and pickling. Sunny yellow fruits with white flesh resemble a lemon. Has mild sweet flavor. Use for slicing and pickling. Pick when young. Normal-sized vines yield heavily and for a long time. Days to Germination: 8-10 Days To Harvest: 65 Planting Depth: 1/2 inch Plant height: 9 ft Spacing, Rows: 3-4 foot Spacing, Hills: 4 foot Light: Sunny Location SOW: seeds directly in sunny garden location after all danger of frost from spring to early summer. Sow 4-6 seeds, 1/2 inch deep, around a 12-inch diameter hill. When seedlings are 1-2 inches tall, thin to 3 plants per hill or if planted in rows 1 foot apart. May start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before planting outdoors. Replant several times for longer harvest. USES: For slicing and pickling. Adds bright color and crispy freshness to salads, hors d'oevres, relishes or salsas. SPINACH Bloomsadale Long Standing (45 Days) Spinacia oleracea HEIRLOOM. Introduced at the turn of the century, this variety remains notable for its high yield, as well as other fine qualities. Dark green leaves are large, heavy and handsomely crinkled. Because they are held erect, they remain cleaner than those of other varieties that lie flat on the ground. Slow to bolt. A very popular variety for the home garden. Days To Maturity: 45 Planting Depth: 1/2 inch Spacing, Row: 12-18 inches Spacing, Seeds: Sow 9-10 seeds per foot Light: Sunny Location SOWING DATES: Spinach germinates best in cool soil. Begin sowing in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Summer sowing in hot soil - over 85-degrees F - risks low or erratic germination. Sow late July into September for the fall crop. Spinach can also be planted from September until freeze-up for an early harvest the following spring. Planting & Harvest: Sow about 9-10 seeds per foot, 1/2 inch deep, in rows 12-18 inches apart. Harvest Spinach full-size but before bolting. Cut just below root attachment for "rooted spinach", or cut higher for "clipped spinach." SUGGESTIONS: Floating row covers offer effective winter protection. Spinach grows on a wide range of soils if moist and fertile, but is sensitive to acidity. Cantaloupe Hale's Best Jumbo (85 Days) Cucumis melo HEIRLOOM. This muskmelon became widely popular because it combined excellent flavor with earliness. Unsurpassed in flavor and size. Hale's Best is a beautiful, large, oval, ribbed cantaloupe with heavy, golden netting. Ribbed netting turns a golden tint as oval shaped melons mature, many weighing 4 lbs. or more. Deep orange flesh is very thick and deliciously sweet, and improves in flavor after picking. Drought tolerant. Days to Germination: 5-10 Days To Harvest: 85 Planting Depth: 1/2 inch Spacing, Row: 4 foot Spacing, Hills: 4 foot Light: Sunny Location SOW: Seed directly outdoors in a sunny location 2-3 weeks after last frost. Sow 6-8 seeds, 1/2 inch deep, around a 12-inch diameter hill. After germination, thin to 3 strongest seedlings per hill. If planted in rows, thin to 12-18 inches apart. Seed may be started indoors 3-4 weeks before planting outdoors. USES: Enjoy sliced or chopped for salads, sauces and salsas or pureed for sorbets or cool summer soups. Carrot Danvers Half Long (73 Days) Dacus Carota sativus HEIRLOOM. Developed in 1886 by market gardeners in Danvers, Massachusetts. The root is a rich, dark orange and 7 to 7-1/2" long, 2 to 2-1/2" across, and tapers to a blunt end. Uniform interior color. Tender and very sweet. Stores well. Outstanding on heavier soils. A first-class carrot for all soils. Days to Germination: 7-14 Days To Harvest: 73 Planting Depth: 1/2" Spacing, Row: 12 to 15" Spacing, Plant: 2 to 3 inches Light: Full Sun SOW: in deep, well-worked, stone-free soil after danger of frost from spring to midsummer (April - July). In Deep South, Gulf and Pacific Coast Areas, sowing may be done Feb - May & Aug-Sept. In full sun and well-drained soil, sow 3 seeds per inch in the row. Cover seeds firmly with soil. For fresh carrots all season plant every 3 weeks until 75 days before the first fall frost. THIN: seedlings to stand 2-3" apart when seedlings are 1-2" high Suggestions: Too much water can cause carrots to crack. Cultivate periodically or mulch to control weeds. Also, lightly place soil over exposed roots to prevent cracking. Do not transplant, as crooked roots may result. ONION Walla Walla Allium cepa (110-125 days) The world’s best tasting onion. A juicy, delicious, sweet onion. This 3-4 inch , mild onion has yellow skin and white flesh. A cold-hardy variety. Can be eaten like an apple or tossed into salads. Long day type. Harvest 110-125 days. SOWING: Seed directly in the garden in a sunny location after all danger of frost has passed. Sow seeds ½-1 inch deep . Space rows approximately 18 inches apart. Seed may be started indoors 8-10 weeks prior to planting outdoors. Can be sown in late August for harvesting the next summer in mild climates. GERMINATION: 10-14 days, depending upon soil and weather conditions. THINNING & TRANSPLANTING: When seedlings are 3 inches high, thin/transplant to 4-6 inches apart. Replant thinned plants. SUGGESTIONS: For early fruiting and to overcome a short growing season, seedlings may be started indoors. Fertile, moist soil enriched with compost is best for onion production. Onions ward off many insect pests around lettuce, cabbage and carrots. Use thinnings as green onions. Harvest young plants in 56-60 days or mature bulbs in 110-125 days. Does not store well PEPPER Sweet Banana Capsicum annuum 75 days. Sweet and tasty, 6 to 7-inch light-yellow peppers. The elongated and pointy fruit have thick walls. The peppers stay sweet and mild even when fully ripe and turn red. Delicious in salads, pickling, and frying. Harvest in 75 days. Days to Germination: 7-21 Optimum Soil Temp. for Germination: 65 to 70F Days To Harvest: 75 days Planting Depth: 1/8 inch Spacing, Seed: 1 inches Spacing, Plant: 18-24 inches Spacing, Row: 2 to 3 feet Light: Full Sun SOWING: Seed directly in the garden in a sunny location 2 or 3 weeks before last frost . Sow seeds 1/8 inch deep. Space rows approximately 18-24 inches apart. GERMINATION: 7-21 days, depending upon soil and weather conditions. THINNING & TRANSPLANTING: When seedling are 2 inches high, thin/transplant to 18 to 24 inches apart. HARVEST: When plants are yellow for young fruit or for fully ripe pick when bright red. SUGGESTIONS: Needs lots of light for germination. Water regularly. Plant in well-drained soil. Cover young seedlings with night caps during cool nights. Feed lightly every 4 weeks. Hot Pepper Jalapeno (75 Days) Capsicum annuum Dark green to red, 3 inch medium-hot, thick-walled peppers taper to 1" wide rounded tips. Matures to dark red. Days to maturity are from time plants are set in garden. For transplants add 8-10 weeks. Space plants 18-24" apart. Sun. Days to Germination: 10-21 Days To Harvest: 75 Planting Depth: 1/4 Spacing, Row: 2 to 3 foot Spacing, Plant: 2 foot apart Light: Sunny Location START INDOORS about 8 weeks before last spring frost. Sow seed 1/4" deep in seed starting formula. Keep moist. Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days at 70-degrees F. Before transfer to garden, accustom plants to outdoor conditions by moving to a sheltered area outside for a week. SET PLANTS 2 apart in rows 2-3 apart in a sunny location after danger of frost and cold weather. Set root ball 1/2" below soil level. SEED can be sown in directly into garden when soil is warm. Peppers can not tolerate frost. HARVEST when fruits have reached full-size, green or red. Dark red fruits are fully ripened. PEPPER, HOT NuMex Big Jim Capsicum annuum 75 days. A very long, hot pepper. This Chile pepper, developed at the New Mexico State University, is the largest of the New Mexican varieties, this type can reach up to a foot long, but averages 7 to 10 inches. A mild, slender, and smooth pepper that grows on a 24 to 36-inch bush. Use green or red for fresh and dried uses. Also can be stuffed and fried. Easy to grow. Grows vigorously. Harvest in 75 days. Days to Germination: 10-21 Optimum Soil Temp. for Germination: 65F to 70F Days To Harvest: 75 days Planting Depth: 1/4 Spacing, Row: 18 to 24 inches Spacing, Plant: 18 to 24 inches Light: Sunny Location SOWING:Start Indoors about 8 weeks before last spring frost. Sow seed 1/4" deep in seed starting formula. Or seed can be sown directly into garden when soil is warm. GERMINATION: Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days, depending upon soil and weather conditions. Before transfer to garden, accustom plants to outdoor conditions by moving to a sheltered area outside for a week. THINNING AND TRANSPLANTING:Set plants 2 apart in rows 2 to 3 feet apart in a sunny location after danger of frost and cold weather. Set root ball 1/2" below soil level. HARVEST when fruits have reached full-size, light green or red. Dark red fruits are fully ripened. SUGGESTIONS: Keep plants moist during germination. Peppers can not tolerate frost. Feed lightly every 4 weeks. OREGANO Greek O Heracleoticum Origanum vulgare hirtum Harvest in 90 days. A hardy Perennial Zone 5- 10. This is true oregano. The aromatic plant produces soft white flowers. The leaves have a superior flavor and can be used for seasoning sauces, added fresh to pastas, salad dressings, fish and pizza. It can also be used for medicinal purposes. Days To Germination: 7-21 days Optimum Soil Temp. For Germination: 65F to 70F Days To Harvest: 90 days Planting Depth: do not cover Seed Spacing: 6 to 8 inches Plant Height: 12 to 18 inches Spacing, Plant: 12 to 18 inches Row Spacing: 12 to 18 inches apart Light: Full Sun SOWING: For best results start seed indoors 6-8 weeks before planting outdoors, as oregano requires a long growing season. You may also sow seed directly outdoors in the spring in a sunny location with well-drained soil , after danger of serious frost has passed. Cover seeds with 1/16 inch of fine soil. GERMINATION: 7-21 days, depending upon soil and weather conditions. THINNING AND TRANSPALNTING: When seedlings are 2 inches high, thin/transplant to 12 to 18 inch apart. SUGGESTIONS: It is strongly recommended to start the seed indoors or outside in early summer and then transplant to its permanent location. Oregano requires a long growing season. Harvest leaves regularly to keep plants compact and productive. BASIL Licorice Ocimum basilicum 75 days to harvest. A tender annual with a strong licorice flavor. This upright growing basil produces good yields of purple colored leaves. The leaves can be used for seasoning, medicines, or added fresh to salads and meats. Harvest in 75 days. Days To Germination: 4-18 days Optimum Soil Temp. For Germination: 70F to 85F Days To Harvest: 75 days Planting Depth: 1/4 inch Seed Spacing: 1/8 to 1/4 inch Plant Height: 8 to 24 inches Spacing, Plant: 8-12 inches Row Spacing: 12 to 18 inches apart Light: Full Sun to Partial Sun SOWING: Sow seed directly outdoors from as soon as soil is workable. May be seeded directly outdoors in full sun or part sun. Cover with 1/4 inch fine soil. Leave 12 to 18 inches between rows. Keep soil moderately moist during germination. Can be grown indoors or outdoors. GERMINATION: 4 to 18 days, depending upon soil and weather conditions THINNING AND TRANSPALNTING: When seedlings are 2 inches high, thin/transplant to 8 to 12 inch apart. SUGGESTIONS: It is strongly recommended to direct sow when soil has warmed or after danger of frost has passed. Plant only need to be watered sparingly once it matures. TURNIPS Purple Top White Globe (55 Days) Brassica rapa HEIRLOOM. A timeless variety. Versatile garden vegetable. Long-time favorite still "tops" with turnip lovers who prize it's deliciously sweet and tender white roots. The turnips are often 4" to 6" across, and as the name states, are purple on top and white below. Round, crisp, creamy-white roots have a mild, sweet flavor. Young leaves make the classic cooked "southern greens". Tops can be eaten as greens and roots are excellent for storing, canning or freezing. Excellent vitamin content. Large, sweet, fine-grained root crop. Stores well. EASY TO GROW! Days To Germinate: 7-14 Days To Maturity: 55 Days Planting Depth: 1/4 inch Spacing, Row: 18 inches Spacing, Plant: 4-6 inches Light: Sunny Location SOWING: Plant seeds outdoors three weeks before the last frost in the spring (Or early spring as soon as the ground can be worked). Seed second crop in mid to late summer for fall harvest. Cover seeds with 1/4 inch fine soil. Space rows 18 inches apart. THINNING: When young seedlings are 2 to 4 inches tall, thin to 4 to 6 inches apart. HARVESTING: Harvest greens when they are large enough to pick, leaving just a few of the tops so the roots will live. Loosen the soil at the base of the leaves with a spading fork before harvesting roots. Small roots are the most tender, so pull when they are 1"-3" in diameter. To store the roots, twist off the tops, leaving 1/2 -inch of stem. Place undamaged roots in a cool, dark place, such as a basement or root cellar. Don’t wash off soil that clings to roots; it helps protect roots in storage. They will keep for several months. In mild areas, you can overwinter roots in the ground by covering them with a thick mulch. SUGGESTIONS: Avoid using fresh manure in soil where you plant turnips. Plants produce best in light, well-drained soil. Eat thinned greens raw or stewed. For best flavor and texture grow during the cooler parts of the growing season and begin harvesting roots when about three inches in diameter. Keep the soil evenly moist to promote fast growth and the best flavor. Lemon BASIL Ocimum basilicum Citriodorum Annual. Compact basil plant with lemon fragrance and flavor. Lemon scented, silver green leaves are refreshing and attractive in the garden and in cooking. Wonderful in salad dressings and any other way you use sweet basil. USES: Leaves make delightful herbal teas and drinks. Dried leaves and flowers are great for potpourri. SUGGESTION: Plant sweet basil for a variety of flavors to use in your favorite dishes. Ht. 12 to 18 inches. Compact growing habit is ideal for small gardens and containers. Days to Germination: 7-21 Days To Harvest: 60 Planting Depth: 1/16-1/8 inch (not very deep) Spacing, Row: 12-18 inches Spacing, Plant: 8-10 inches Light: Full Sun (or Partial Shade) SOW in a location with full sun (or Partial Shade) outdoors after all danger of frost and when it is warm. Basil can be planted outside from early-spring through mid-summer. (For earlier plants start seeds indoors in flats 4 to 6 weeks before last frost and set plants outside when it is warm, after all danger of frost.) Leave about 12-18 inches between rows or use in group plantings. Cover seed with 1/16 to 1/8 inch fine soil. Keep soil moderately moist during germination. THINNING & TRANSPLANTING Thin or transplant when at least 2 inches tall to approximately 8-10 inches apart. Indoors, transplant seedlings to individual pots and set plants outside when it is warm and after all danger of frost. HARVEST: Harvest leaves continually to encourage new growth. Use pruned leaves or harvested plants fresh or dry them in a warm, airy place. When dry, remove leaves from stems and seal leaves in an airtight jar or bottle. SUGGESTIONS: Pinch back plants early and often to encourage bushiness, discourage flowering and to use the pruned leaves. They grow quickly and yield well when seeded thickly into moderately rich, moist soil in full sun. Grows best in full sun. If you practice companion planting, plant basil near tomatoes and peppers to enhance their growth. MELON Rocky Ford Green Flesh Cucumis melo 85 to 94 days. A green- fleshed heirloom variety. The oval fruit grows 5 to 6 inches in diameter. They can weigh 2 to 3 pounds. The sweet melons are heavily netted and has a ribbed rind. Hardy and early melons with a spicy, nutmeg-like flavor and outstanding aroma. Disease resistant. Harvest in 85 to 94 days. Days to Germination: 7-14 Optimum Soil Temp. For Germination: 80 to 95F Days To Harvest: 85 to 94 days Planting Depth: 1/2 inch Spacing, Row: 5 foot Spacing, Hill: 5 foot Light: Sunny Location SOW: Seed directly in the garden in a sunny location 2 weeks after all danger of frost. Sow 5-7 seeds, ½ inch deep around a 12 inch diameter hill. Space hills (or rows) approximately 5 foot apart. Seed may be started indoors 3-4 weeks prior to planting outdoors. THINNING & TRANSPLANTING: After germination, thin to 2-3 seedlings per hill. If planted in rows, thin seedlings to 2 feet apart. Seed may be started indoors 3-4 weeks prior to planting outdoors. Transplant eedlings started indoors with care. SUGGESTIONS: Melons thrive in a sunny, warm location. For early fruiting and to overcome a short growing season, seedlings may be started indoors. To keep the melons clean and disease-free, as well as keeping unwanted weeds away, apply 1-3 inches of mulch as the plant begins to vine. This type does well in northern climates. Watermelon Sugar Baby (75 Days) Sweet tasting popular "Ice Box" watermelon. Early and Productive. Sweet, juicy, fine-textured, medium-red flesh and thin hard rind. The round, 8 to 12 lb., dark green skinned melons grow 8 inches across. Well suited for the limited areas as the vines can be grown on a trellis. Drought Resistant. Ready to harvest about 75 days after seeding. Days to Germination: 5-7 Days To Harvest: 75 Planting Depth: 1/2 inch Spacing, Row: 4 foot Spacing, Hill: 4 foot Light: Sunny Location SOW: Seed directly in the garden in a sunny location. Sow 6-8 seeds, 1/2 inch deep around a 12 inch diameter hill. After germination, thin to 2-3 seedlings per hill. If planted in rows, thin seedlings to 2 feet apart. Seed may be started indoors 3-4 weeks prior to planting outdoors. Transplant with care. SHORTER VINES ARE TERRIFIC FOR SMALL GARDENS. SUGGESTIONS: Watermelons thrive in a sunny, warm location. For early fruiting and to overcome a short growing season, seedlings may be started indoors.

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 02:07 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Open pollinated burpless cuke sounds great. Sweet banana peppers even did well in a month of 100+ degrees for us and produced like crazy. From just a few spring planted plants we got peppers for many months. Turnips liked the cold months here. You get both greens and roots, which is great. Home grown are so sweet and tender if you pick them smallish that I was really surprised. I had thought of turnips as bitter nasty things. In my climate, spinach does bolt, even Bloomsdale, if spring planted. We only got a very short time of harvest, but it was delish raw in salads for that short time. I did not try it to see if it might grow all winter here like chard does, and it might. In a small garden I think pole beans are such an advantage, as you use vertical space.

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 02:09 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading oh! Sugar baby did great for us too. But ants would burrow in from under if i did not sprinkle a diatomaeceous earth ant barrier under and around each young fruit. AND small is a relative concept. Watermelon still takes a lot of space in a yard size garden. Sugar baby would spread out about 6x6 per plant while Sweet banana pepper used 1x1 of garden space and 4 turnips could grow in a square foot.

Dude | 08-07-2006 02:18 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by AMforPM (Post 323721) oh! Sugar baby did great for us too. But ants would burrow in from under if i did not sprinkle a diatomaeceous earth ant barrier under and around each young fruit.
Another gem. Did you try to plant them closer than the 4' suggested distance?

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 02:47 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading We planted them several years and I think I did not try close spacing. We even tried growing them up our heavy duty hog wire tomato cages, which works well for cantaloupe if you make a sling for nearly ripe fruit so it does not 'pick itself' as it gets heavy. One year sugar baby spread out of the garden and over the grass for a huge area, and we let them, just to see how that went. Lots of melons, and the little ant war. LOL!

wallew | 08-07-2006 02:55 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/088...e=UTF8&s=books It's a book called "The Have More Plan". Basically covers EVERYTHING you possibly might want to grow or raise. Covers it all. Written I believe in the early fifties. I've had a copy for twenty plus years. Occasionally it's nice to thumb through for reference. The seeds are called Heirloom http://www.rareseeds.com/ or Heritage seeds http://www.heritageseeds.com.au/ . These are seeds that have NOT been genetically changed. Which means if you can grow them, you can harvest seeds from what you grow and they will be the same, pretty much forever. Only until the chemical companies became involved in the agribusiness did seeds become genetically altered to resist bugs and blights and other things. BUT the consequences were you could NOT expect the seeds they produced to grow properly. How convient for the the agribusiness people who sold you those genetically altered seeds in the first place. THEY KNEW you would be back. EVERY YEAR... From the SAME PEOPLE that brought us 'planned obsolescense'...

AMforPM | 08-07-2006 04:29 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by J in AZ (Post 323820) I have some sugar baby watermelons that are doing great. My question is: how do you tell if they are ready to harvest?? (my first time growing them)
I never got good at watermelon thumping. I can tell when they are in the region of ripe, but picking perfect ripeness was blind luck mostly. I tried using the color of the part on the ground and the sound if thumped. Canatloupe you can tell by smell, easily, but watermelon is something some get great at, but I think you have some trial and refinement before you.

Atahualpa | 08-07-2006 05:24 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by AMforPM (Post 323880) I never got good at watermelon thumping. I can tell when they are in the region of ripe, but picking perfect ripeness was blind luck mostly. I tried using the color of the part on the ground and the sound if thumped. Canatloupe you can tell by smell, easily, but watermelon is something some get great at, but I think you have some trial and refinement before you.
I've tried every trick in the book for picking a good watermelon and it's still hit and miss. I look for just the right amount of yellowing on the bottom, check the stem, thump it, tap it...still nothing beat the old fashion way, plugging them and tasting it.

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dust_bunny | 08-07-2006 07:43 PM
Re: Urban Homesteading Quote:
Originally Posted by Atahualpa (Post 323937) I've tried every trick in the book for picking a good watermelon and it's still hit and miss. I look for just the right amount of yellowing on the bottom, check the stem, thump it, tap it...still nothing beat the old fashion way, plugging them and tasting it.
The amount of white/yellow on the bottom is the only indicator you can use short of cutting into it. The more pale it is compared to the rest of the outside that is in the sun, the riper it is.

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