Gold & Silver Forum (http://goldismoney.info/forums/index.php)
- Prospecting (http://goldismoney.info/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=143)
- - GOLD NUGGETS !!! (http://goldismoney.info/forums/showthread.php?t=38384)

AuNuggets | 06-11-2006 03:38 PM
GOLD NUGGETS !!! 9 Attachment(s) Nuggets are a great way to find, collect, and save gold. Here are some of my favorites over the years......

Raccoon | 06-11-2006 03:42 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! How do you know the actual gold content in those things?

smullen | 06-11-2006 03:44 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Holy Crap... I could dig to China and not find a gram of Gold or Silver... Where did you dig those up???

AuNuggets | 06-11-2006 04:07 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Quote:
Originally Posted by Raccoon How do you know the actual gold content in those things?
Serious collectors and prospectors can usually get a good indication of gold content in one of several ways, either specific gravity tests, acid touch stone testing, electronic testing, etc. The general area where a nugget is found can also be a good indicator of it's purity based on other gold found in the same area with known assay results. Most of these belong to other collectors and were found in different locations by several different people. Here is a link to a good story on the discovery of the "Stone Fish" nugget..... http://www.janetsgoldnuggets.com/golden.htm Enjoy !

goldminer | 06-11-2006 09:35 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Several of the pictured nuggets look like their from the fields in Australia. Another way to tell the quality of a nugget is to hold it beside 14 and 18 Kt. rings. High quality native gold that is 22-23 Kt. will make a 14 Kt. wedding band look a much lighter "silvery" color. To a prospector a quantity of native gold in different classes is fun to display, show, and appreciate, but beyond that it needs to be sold...minimally IMO traded for bullion bars or bullion coins. In a shtf environment native gold will be near worthless. Firstly, 99.99 percent of people falsly believe that the old-timers got it all so it doesn't exist anymore and don't know what it would look like if they saw it. Thus is not about going to trade anything of value for it...thinking that they would be getting ripped off. Secondly, the only way you can be certain of a color's true value is to melt and assay it. That's why virtually all of the nuggets found before 1990 sadly, were melted. Some of them were breathtaking and huge but no one had any appreciation for their rarity, natural beauty, and asthetic value - just the gold they cantained. To a prospector, the "rush" is in the great "chase" and find...bringing it to the light of day and being the first person who has ever seen it.

BeefJerky | 06-11-2006 09:43 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Just had a thought. Not sure about the viability though. The Miner 49'er types had access to the stream banks and shallow beds. What if a fellow got some SCUBA gear and dredged out the deep pockets, especially below falls areas. I would think gold would tend to collect there as it was washed downstream. Probably in higher than normal concentrations.:elefant: :elefant:

Book | 06-11-2006 10:43 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Thanks AuNuggets for posting these photos. I never saw anything like this before. Imagine what it must have been like for the guys who found these. :thumbs up

Goldhedge | 06-11-2006 10:52 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! That's all well and good. What I wanna know is how was that EMU Beer!:coolbeer:

goldminer | 06-12-2006 07:11 AM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! ..."Just had a thought. Not sure about the viability though. The Miner 49'er types had access to the stream banks and shallow beds. What if a fellow got some SCUBA gear and dredged out the deep pockets, especially below falls areas. I would think gold would tend to collect there as it was washed downstream. Probably in higher than normal concentrations..." What you are saying is true; prospectors call it "reading(ing) the creek". Waterways are natural concentrators of loosened (placer) gold. What a person needs to do is to study ("read") a stream. Imagine what it is like under fast moving floodwater conditions. Gold travels down the channel(larger colors with larger rocks along the bottom) with tons and tons of other streambed materials. What a prospector wantsw to locate are places where an obstruction of one kind or another, caused the force of the water to lessen to a point that gold could "fall out" and settle. Below a waterfall is one type of "obstruction"...often not directly at the base because the water hits with such force that it often creates what we call a "boil hole"...pounds and boils out all of the materials that travel with the water. A prospector who is "sampling" wants to check the impact area but also wants to check the area immediately on the downstream side of the area where the water falls and hits the streambed. This is the location where the water will have had a lot less force compared with the force it had when it hit after going over the falls.

goldminer | 06-13-2006 05:47 AM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! P.S....."What if a fellow got some SCUBA gear and dredged out the deep pockets..." Scuba tank air is too expensive and impractical to use for extended time underwater. When working more than an arms length deep, a dredge needs to be equipped with a low-pressure air compressor (that's powered by the engine) and air line to the diver who is suctioning. And the diver has to have diving weights that will keep him or her on the bottom. This is usually somewhere in the vicinity of 50 lbs for an adult male in a wet suit, and more if in a dry suit.

goldminer | 06-13-2006 07:57 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Hello Buckeye! I'm originally from Columbus & am a Buckeye from the top of my head to the tips of my toes. Firstly about the dredge...when you're ready I recommend you consider getting a 4" vs. 3". The 4" outfit is really no bigger than the 3" except if you can afford it equip the 4" with a 6.5 HP Honda. It will move twice the dirt in a given amount of time than will the 3". Also will easily support a hooka air rig which you'll want, so you can keep your face in your work. Otherwise you'll miss a lot of good colors that are lodged in bedrock. Wet suits = a must. Cold isn't fun, and it creates stress that results in early fatigue. The dive shop folks you mention might know about what a dredging suit requires but also may not. Dredging isn't snorkeling or scuba diving. Regardless of the stream or time of year, a diver suctioning the streambed is always working in comparatively colder water because warmer water always rises towards the surface, takes up space, and forces comparatively cooler water to locate at a lower level. Subsequently the coldest water is virtually always on the bottom where a dredger is mining. Thus under most conditions divers wear a protective garment called a dive suit. Dive suits are classed as �dry� or �wet�. Most dredgers own full wetsuits and the primary reason is simple: a good dry suit costs about 3 times as much as a good wetsuit because dry suits are made specifically for cold water diving. A quality dry suit will run $1200-$1500.00 and has a downside in buoyancy that makes it necessary for a diver to comparatively wear a lot of weight. It is essentially an outer �skin� designed to be comparatively big so a diver can wear layers of thermal underclothing to comfortably spend extended periods of time in cooler water. Dry suits have built in boots, waterproof zippers, and seal at the wrists and neck to effectively keep out water. Because these suits seal, they are airtight and have �ports� to allow a diver to release and inject air that is warmed by the body�s heat. Air serves as excellent insulation from outside cold water. A diver who works colder waters has to wear a dry suit if s/he wants real honest-to-goodness thermal comfort during the entire length of time in the water. Most dry suits are manufactured with vulcanized rubber, neoprene of various thickness, and waterproof nylon. Suits are available with different zipper lengths. The longer the zipper the easier the suit is to get into and out of. Preferable is a style with a zipper that goes around the neck. The next preferable style is a suit that has a zipper that runs from the shoulder down to the hip. Dry suits are also made with two different hood styles. One type is made as permanent part of the suit and the other is entirely separate. If a person plans to spend time in the suit out of water, it is advantageous to have a suit that does not have an attached hood. A diver who needs a dry suit should choose one that fits properly. Specifically this is a suit that is designed to fit the divers gender, height, and weight, is loose enough to permit the wearing of thin thermal undergarments, has neck and wrist seals that are snug but not tight to the point that there is discomfort, and boots that allow room for thick socks. With out doubt custom-made is best. Virtually all divers who dredge relatively warm waters during the summer and tolerate cooler waters wear wetsuits. There are a many different types of wet suits available on the market. These include �Shorty� suits with legs that extend to above the knees and arms that extend to above the elbows. Shorty�s are worn predominantly by individuals who engage in warm water surface sports like snorkeling, surfing, and water and jet skiing, but are also suitable for diving on hot days in warm waters. �Full� wet suits are preferred by a predominance of miners for gold dredging operations. These suits have full-length arms and legs and are available in one-piece and two-piece �Farmer John/Jane� styles. Most experienced dredgers by far prefer a �Farmer John/Jane� style. This is because there are several disadvantages to one-piece suits. A �Farmer John/Jane� suit has many advantages. A good two-piece suit is very easy to get on an off. It has step-in farmer-type overhauls and a long step-in, wrap around front zipper top that can be excluded when diving in warmer water. Farmer-john type suits also dry quicker and are more easily maintained. Before you purchase any wetsuit do your homework and remember that they are manufactured and sold for many different applications. If you plan to use your suit to dredge gold, gemstones, and/or relics, do yourself a favor and get a good quality, properly fitting, two-piece �Farmer John/Jane�. Most wetsuits are made with different types and qualities of neoprene foam that is produced in different thickness for use in waters that range from 50 to near 80 degrees F. Some things that determine the quality of a wetsuit are type of neoprene or other material, type of seams, and thickness. Considering only a suit of good quality. Generally speaking the thicker the neoprene the warmer the suit is, but also the stiffer it is. Subsequently, better suits are made with neoprene of one thickness in the torso, another thickness in the legs, and a third thickness in the arms. All neoprene wetsuits have a coating or �shell� on the outside. Water enters a wet suit through the openings at the neck and ends of the arms and legs. The water that enters a good quality properly fitting suit lies against the skin where it is warmed by body temperature, takes up all available space, and keeps additional colder water from entering the suit. The warmed water helps prevent heat loss. A poor quality and poor fitting suit does not trap and hold the water that enters the openings at the neck, wrists, and ankles, and thus continually lets additional cooler water enter the suit that forces the warmed water out. A properly fitted wet suit keeps a diver much warmer than would swimming apparel or blue jeans, and a high quality suit made with neoprene that has bubbles with the capacity to trap a comparatively high volume of air or gas, is a lot warmer yet. Using a good quality properly fitting hood is critical to warmth because it will prevent the loss of body heat through the head. The hood a dredger wants fits tightly enough that it does not let water enter at either the face opening or the neck, and yet is not so tight that it is uncomfortable. Avoid all dive suits that are made with rubber and any suit that does not fit properly. A suit that is too tight can cause shallow breathing and limit circulation that is important to tissue and overall warmth. Too loose a suit will allow cold water to continually enter the suit and keep the diver from being warm. Purchase only the highest quality and best fitting suit that you can afford and again�get a �Farmer John� style. But regardless whether you opt for a one or two-piece wet suit, get one that has a front zipper or have a zipper installed at a dive shop. A front zipper is important. It allows a diver to relieve him or herself and also makes a suit easier to put on and get off. The down side is that it allows more cold water to enter the suit. A suit with no zipper eliminates that coldwater entry point but is more difficult to put on and take off. A suit that doesn�t have a front zipper also gets significantly stressed. A guy has to wear weights that will overcome the buoyancy of the suit and keep him on the bottom. For an adult male this is normally somewhere around 50 lbs but you have to wear the suit and other dive items and use a trial & error method to find out what weight works best for you. I highly recommend that you get a weight harness vs. a weight belt. The harness has pockets in which you can put bird shot that conforms to the body and is very comfortable. A weight belt with its hard lead weights is very uncomfortable; the weights will poke you in your sides when you twist and turn while you�re working. Make sure you get a pair of lightweight work-type coveralls to wear over your suit, and some slip on rubber boots to wear over your suit booties. Otherwise you�ll be tearing up your suit and booties on the stream bottom materials that they will constantly be coming in contact with. If you tear or otherwise cut your suit get a tube of �Sportsman�s Goop� from Walmart or Lowes. Goop is the greatest repair item to come down the road since duct tape. The stuff is super tough, stays flexible, and is waterproof. Like duct tape it can be used for a million different things. Just apply the goop and use a wet fingertip to form and smooth it on the item you�re repairing. Other questions just ask. I�ll tell you everything I know but then when your start finding nuggets call me�I need to know where you�re dredging!

ngmega | 06-14-2006 07:31 AM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! "The world hates change, yet it is the only thing that has brought progress." "Never doubt that a small, group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has." "If we don't change, we don't grow. If we don't grow, we aren't really living." what's your new plans?

goldminer | 06-14-2006 09:30 PM
Re: GOLD NUGGETS !!! Ok, thanks for the invite. If Tom's there tell him I said hello. If Perry's there don't say nuttin! And forgot....don't forget a good sturdy set of knee pads. You can get 'em at Lowes or Home Depot pretty cheap.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:49 PM. |

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright = None use it and Link to GIM